Quick answer: Sublimation works on white or light polyester (at least 65%) and poly-coated blanks. Press shirts at 385–400°F for 45–60 seconds, and tumblers at 360–375°F for 45–60 seconds in a tumbler press or 375–400°F for 5–6 minutes in a convection oven.
Sublimation gives you full-colour prints that become part of the item itself. There is nothing to feel on the fabric and nothing to crack or peel. It is also the least forgiving decoration method: the wrong blank, a loose wrap or a few degrees of heat can be the difference between a vivid print and a faded one. This guide covers how sublimation works, how to choose blanks, our recommended settings, and how to fix the most common problems.
How sublimation works
Sublimation ink is printed onto special transfer paper. Under heat, the ink turns into a gas and bonds with polyester fibres or a polyester coating. When it cools, the colour is locked inside the material instead of sitting on top of it.
That is what makes sublimation different from transfers like DTF:
- No feel: the print is part of the fabric, so it breathes and stays soft.
- No cracking or peeling: there is no layer on top to wear away.
- Full colour and photos: gradients and photographic images reproduce well.
- The catch: it only works on polyester or poly-coated items, and only on white or light colours.
Choosing the right blank

Fabric content
Sublimation ink only bonds with polyester, so the polyester content of a garment decides how bright the result will be.
| Fabric | What to expect |
|---|---|
| 100% polyester | The brightest, most vivid colour and the best wash resistance. |
| 65–99% polyester | Softer, slightly faded colours, often called a vintage look. Reds and yellows usually soften more than blues and greens. |
| Under 65% polyester | Washed-out, uneven results. We do not recommend it. |
| 100% cotton | Will not hold sublimation ink. Use DTF instead. |
Fabrics with a lot of stretch (spandex or elastane) can cause blurry edges, so test those first.
Garment colour
Sublimation ink is transparent and there is no white ink, so the colours mix with the base colour of the item. White gives true colours. Light grey, cream and pastels work but will tint the design. Black and dark colours will not show the print.
Hard goods
Tumblers, mugs, coasters, mouse pads and keychains need a polyester coating made for sublimation. Ordinary mugs and stainless tumblers will not take the ink. Buy blanks labelled for sublimation from a reliable supplier, because uneven coatings lead to patchy prints.
Sublimation press settings

| Item | Temperature | Time |
|---|---|---|
| Polyester apparel (heat press) | 385–400°F (196–204°C) | 45–60 seconds |
| Tumblers and mugs (tumbler press) | 360–375°F (182–191°C) | 45–60 seconds |
| Tumblers and mugs (convection oven) | 375–400°F (191–204°C) | 5–6 minutes |
Treat these as starting points. Always check the blank maker’s recommendation, test one piece and adjust from there.
Check your press temperature
Heat press displays are not always accurate, and many presses run cooler or hotter than they show. An infrared thermometer, a probe or temperature test strips will tell you what the platen is really doing. This one step solves a lot of faded and scorched prints.
Before you press
- Your transfer will look backwards and dull. Sublimation transfers are printed as mirror images, so text reads backwards on the paper. Colours also look flat until heat brings them out. Both are normal.
- Keep the paper dry. Store transfers flat in a sealed bag, away from heat and humidity, and press them sooner rather than later.
- Protect your press. Ink gas can pass through the blank and stain the platens, then show up on the next item. Use protective paper or a Teflon cover on both the top and bottom.
- Have heat-resistant tape and gloves ready. Use tape rated for heat presses, not regular craft tape.
How to sublimate a shirt
- Prep the shirt. Lint-roll it, then pre-press for 3–5 seconds to remove moisture and wrinkles. Moisture causes blotches and small dots.
- Protect the back. Slide butcher paper or cardstock inside the shirt so ink does not pass through to the back.
- Position the transfer. Place it printed side down and secure it with heat tape so it cannot shift.
- Press. Cover with butcher paper and press at 385–400°F for 45–60 seconds with firm, even pressure.
- Peel straight away. Lift the paper in one smooth motion. Letting it slide on hot fabric causes ghosting.
How to sublimate a tumbler or mug
- Size the design. Measure the circumference and the straight part of the tumbler. Make the design very slightly wider than the circumference so there is no white gap at the seam, and keep important text on the front where it can be seen.
- Clean the blank. Wipe away dust and fingerprints, but do not use alcohol right before pressing.
- Wrap tightly. Wrap the transfer printed side in, pull it snug with no air pockets, and tape the seam and the top and bottom edges. Avoid putting tape over the printed area, since it can block ink.
- Add butcher paper, or shrink wrap if you use an oven. Heat shrink wrap gently and evenly with a heat gun so it does not split.
- Press or bake. In a tumbler press: 360–375°F for 45–60 seconds. In a convection oven: 375–400°F for 5–6 minutes, lying the tumbler on its side and turning it halfway for even heat.
- Peel while hot. Wearing heat-resistant gloves, remove the wrap, tape and paper while the tumbler is still hot.
Safety note: use an oven reserved for sublimation, not the one you cook food in, and work in a ventilated area.
Troubleshooting common sublimation problems
| Problem | Likely cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Ghosting (faint double image) | Paper shifted during or after pressing | Tape the transfer down, peel in one smooth motion, and be careful with presses that pop open quickly |
| Blurry or bleeding edges | Too much time or heat, or a loose wrap | Shorten time slightly, wrap tighter, and avoid high-stretch fabrics |
| Dull or faded colours | Not enough heat or time, low polyester, or a tinted blank | Check the real platen temperature, use higher-polyester white blanks |
| Small dots or blotches | Moisture in the blank or paper | Pre-press the blank and keep transfers dry |
| Scorching or yellowing | Temperature too high for that garment | Lower by about 10°F and test again |
| Old designs appear on new items | Ink stained the platen or pad | Use protective paper on both sides and replace it often |
| White gap at the tumbler seam | Design narrower than the circumference | Size the design slightly wider and overlap the seam |
| Colours fade after washing | Low polyester content | Use 100% polyester or a high-polyester blend |
Need to print on cotton or dark shirts?
Standard sublimation will not work on cotton or dark fabric, but you still have options:
- DTF transfers: printed with a white base layer, so colours show up on black shirts, cotton and blends. This is the simplest option for most orders.
- White or glitter heat transfer vinyl: press the vinyl onto the shirt first, then sublimate onto the vinyl. It works, but takes extra steps and the design area has a vinyl feel.
- Coated or white-panel blanks: some dark products have a white polyester area made for sublimation. The design has to stay inside that area.
- Choose a lighter garment: white, light grey or pastel polyester shirts give the best sublimation results.
Not sure which to use? Read our DTF vs sublimation comparison.
Preparing your artwork
- Design at the final print size at 300 DPI.
- Use a high-resolution file. Photos and gradients look great with sublimation, but only if the source image is sharp.
- Remember that white areas will not print. They will show the colour of the blank.
- Very bright screen colours can print slightly differently. See our guide to preparing artwork and RGB vs CMYK.
Caring for sublimated items
- Wash apparel inside out in cold or warm water and tumble dry on low or hang to dry.
- Avoid bleach.
- Do not iron directly on the print at high heat. Sublimation dye can move again if reheated.
- Hand-wash tumblers and mugs unless the blank maker says they are dishwasher safe.
Frequently asked questions
Can you sublimate on cotton?
Not directly. Sublimation ink bonds with polyester, so plain cotton will not hold the print. Use DTF transfers for cotton instead.
Can you sublimate on black shirts?
Not with standard sublimation. The ink is transparent and there is no white ink. Use DTF, or press white vinyl first and sublimate onto it.
Is 50/50 polyester good for sublimation?
It will take some colour, but results look washed out and uneven. We recommend at least 65% polyester, and 100% for the brightest colour.
Why does my sublimation transfer look dull on the paper?
That is normal. Colours develop under heat and pressure, so the paper always looks flatter than the finished print.
Do I need to mirror sublimation transfers?
Yes. Sublimation transfers are printed as mirror images so the design reads correctly once it is pressed face down.
What temperature do you sublimate tumblers at?
We suggest 360–375°F for 45–60 seconds in a tumbler press, or 375–400°F for 5–6 minutes in a convection oven.
Why is my sublimation print ghosting?
The paper moved while hot. Tape it down well and peel in one smooth motion.
Does sublimation crack or peel?
No. The ink becomes part of the polyester rather than sitting on top, so there is no layer to crack. Colours can soften over time with harsh washing.
Ready to order? Choose sublimation gang sheets by size, a sublimation rolling sheet or single sublimation sheets. Full steps are also on our application instructions page.

